Devin, City Dog and I headed out to backpack the Steens Mountain Gorges Loop without more thought than simply getting out. What we experienced was nothing short of spectacular. It is a twenty-six mile hike, rated strenuous, and we aimed to do it in 2 days. The Steens Mountain Wilderness has been a place I have long wanted to
explore. I am glad I waited until just this moment to undertake this adventure.
From the moment we arrived at Steens Mountain, the magic began. A wild horse crossed our path on the drive in and slowly meandered away glancing at us in calm curiosity. We awoke the following morning and set foot on the trailhead just as the sun came across the land. We started our hike heading into Little Blitzen Gorge. The crisp fall air and warming sun were welcoming measures.
As the sage and cottonwood gave way to aspen groves, we charged on in silence each observing our surroundings. The remnants of summer lingered through the remaining floral bouquets, yet autumn had arrived and the canyons were beginning their preparation for their fall display. I was instantly pleased to be back on the trail.
We kept on pace for the first 8 miles, only to find our trail diminished away. The book stated that it would be cross-country travel from this point and up the canyon headwall. We proceeded on utilizing game trails when available and occasional footpaths. The river started gaining a more steady elevation, and the falls cascading all around were beautiful. I wished for a moment that the day was better for capturing the loveliness, but quickly chuckled at myself and enjoyed it internally.
We entered the basin and stared in awe. The gorges on Steens Mountain are stunning. There was a panhandle running across the valley floor with the river plunging from its headwaters. About this time I looked over to my right and saw a quickly recognized black object. It was an intact obsidian arrowhead. I always treasure these moments when I am blessed to stumble upon such pieces; knowing that you are walking the same land as those that once truly treasured it. One instantly feels more connected to all that surrounds. It was in such great location, I stopped and took a photograph. A gift such as this on this already grand journey…I don’t ever want to forget. We both laughed at how ridiculously beautiful and amazing this trip already was.
After a water rest and route assessment, we chose our line and headed up the canyon headwall. This is where the “strenuous” began. The canyon gains three thousand feet in this short section. We charged forward against the rapid elevation and made it mid-way up. The land steepened more and we proceeded.
About this time we found ourselves actively involved in our travels. I remember looking over at Devin and laughing. Here we were: heavy packs on our backs, a two thousand foot drop below us, climbing, and I mean 3-4 points of contact, these bluffs of rock that were basically just choss. We had spread out a bit from each other for safety. Each time I made it safely up my obstacle, I would look over in pure child bliss. This was great! I felt alive and found myself laughing at how absurd this seamed for a “backpacking” trail.
By the time we made it to the top, we were exhausted. We slowly headed down the road anyways, which must be followed for several miles. We stopped at a wind block and took off our packs. We had already traveled 11 miles, had several more to go, light was fading, we had another headwall to down climb and we were exhausted, but we were laughing. The beauty just couldn’t be beat and we felt grateful to be there. A hunter came along right at this time and gave us each a beer; it was a Keystone Light and the best damn Keystone Light of my life. We thanked him for his random act of kindness and declined his offers to drive us to the next trailhead. He laughed at our journey and offered to drive us to our car too if we wanted. He truly thought we were crazy, but he was a nice man.
With a beer in our bellies at almost 9500 feet, we marched on renewed and ready to get to a site that we could set up our tent. The last few miles down the road were long and we eased the pains by slowly keeping talk. We reached Big Indian Gorge and followed the description to enter the headwall near the saddle between Wildhorse Lake and our Gorge. The sun was beyond the horizon as we began our descent. This headwall was only two thousand feet, but we did not feel secure about proceeding by headlamp. Devin spotted a larger rock bluff with the seemingly only flat spot along this wall. The light was gone, so we set up camp about one third of the way down the wall. Lying down felt like paradise after those 15 miles. Sleep came even faster.
We awoke just before sunrise to a pitter-patter of hail. It was time to get off this wall in case any weather came in. Crawling out of the tent was breathtaking. The light was just sweeping across the sky and everything was aglow. I delightfully took a few shots as Devin began packing our gear. As the sun came upon a range west of us, a small rainbow came into sight. We both took it in and finished our packing. The layers of enchantment were piling up.
Weaving our way down this headwall into the basin of Big Indian Gorge left us scanning the terrain in awestruck wonder. We made our way to Big Indian Creek and finally traversed into the aspen groves. With a hint of sun creeping into the Gorge, we stopped for breakfast and piece of mind. The difficulties were behind us and we simply had 10 miles to go. The warmth of the sun was broken only by drizzling rain with pockets of light dancing in and out everywhere.
This is a moment that I know has laid a foundation for a new chapter for me. I was overwhelmed with beauty. The Steens Mountain Gorges are as beautiful as it gets. There is no higher level of beauty, just different we decided. We were flabbergasted at our surroundings and speechless all the same. This trip was hands down epic.
I think we smiled the whole way down this canyon. We stopped in aspen groves so old and unique listening to their leaves ripple in the breeze. There were grass fields stamped with impressions from the wind. The diversity of plant life in these gorges is truly as impressive as is told. A few final stream crossings and we exited our canyon wonderland.
I will always backpack in the mountains. There is nothing greater than being slowly broken down gazing externally to discover one’s self, as well as life itself. As David Brower once said, “Wilderness holds the answers to questions we do not yet know how to ask”. I believe that backpacking brings us away from the crowds, away from distractions, away from society and opens our hearts to hear those answers.
And yes, we did stop at the hot springs. Our ritual for post-trip recoveries.
-Mel
